 |
No More Homeless Pets Forum
March 7, 2005 Taking Good Care of Pets and the Earth |
Is it possible to save both pets and the environment? What about when coyotes go after dogs and cats, or when deer eat your landscaped plants? How can you choose the most environmentally friendly cat litter? Environmental and animal advocate Sally Mackler of Humane USA will answer your questions about how to be kind to the earth and wildlife while also helping homeless animals.
Introduction from Sally Mackler:
I have been fascinated by animals for as long as I can remember. It began with the family dog as a child in Chicago, and expanded as my awareness of all kinds of animals and how they are treated grew. I have been a caretaker at a wildlife refuge in Southern California, studied exotic antelopes and rhinoceroses at the National Zoo in Washington DC and Wild Animal Park in San Diego, worked for spay/neuter organizations and shared my home and life with cats, dogs, chickens, rabbits and a desert tortoise. It has been a privilege to have known so many wonderful furred and feathered friends.I spend considerable time now sticking up for wildlife by walking the halls of the State capitol, sending action alerts, talking with legislators; and trying to minimize the suffering of kittens and puppies by creating programs to spay and neuter dogs and cats. A lot of what I talk about is how to minimize conflicts. Conflicts between domestic animals and wildlife such as livestock/pets and cougars, always a hot topic in Oregon, conflicts between feral cats and song birds, conflicts between hunters and wildlife, conflicts between house cats and feral cats, conflicts between raccoons and feral cats and conflicts between people and all of the above. I look forward to discussing this and more during the forum and hope we can come up with some interesting solutions.
Questions
Alternatives to leg hold traps in response to coyote sightings
Stopping sport or contest hunting on predators
The inside scoop on safe and responsible cat litters
What about caring for feral cats when it affects wildlife?
Open fire on feral cats?
Green and clean
Uninvited rats deserve humane treatment, too!
Of mice and men, plus 'enviros vs. animal people'
Blocking mice without potentially deadly steel wool
The grass is always greener... but is it animal-friendly?
Alternatives to leg hold traps in response to coyote sightings
Question from Mary:
Just a few weeks ago, we learned that one of the suburbs of Detroit, set steel jawed leg hold traps to catch coyotes on the city golf course. The area is very urban, in fact the golf course backs up to a huge plant, but does adjoin the Detroit River. The animal control officer claims that coyotes were spotted in the area so the traps were his way of dealing with the coyotes. The traps were removed after the mayor learned they were there. However, the animal control officer was quoted in the paper that the traps may come back, since he doesn't know of any other way to deal with coyotes. We'd like to send an informational packet with humane alternatives. Can you give us some input on what the alternatives are and where we can find information?Response from Sally:
Leg hold traps are indiscriminate brutal, archaic, and barbaric. I would not recommend setting a leg hold trap under practically any circumstances, especially simply because someone possibly spotted a coyote. First of all, I would question whether it was truly a coyote that was spotted. Most people cannot reliably discern between a coyote, wolf hybrid, wolf, German Shepherd Dog, or mixed breed dog, especially in the twilight hours when canines tend to be more active.Secondly, coyotes are a fact of life. They are present in almost every environment in America. Why do they want to eliminate the coyotes? There needs to be a good reason to want the coyotes gone. Are the coyotes actually causing any sort of problem, or do the authorities object to their very existence?
The best way to discourage coyotes is to eliminate what's attracting them to the area, usually a food source such as pet food left outdoors, especially from dusk to dawn, but even in the daytime. Even bird feed, compost heaps, trash cans, fruit trees, and nut trees can attract a hungry coyote family (and other 'pests' such as raccoons, rats, possums, skunks, etc). It is suggested to keep trash cans inside until the morning of pick up, rather than leaving the can out overnight as a veritable smorgasbord for any hungry creature that comes along. In problem areas, consider investing in a trash can that can't be flung over and opened up (if a 4 year old can open it, so can most wildlife), such as a model with a locking lid. Please note that everyone on the block will need to comply, or else the roaming critters can just go to the 'restaurant' next door...
Outdoor, free range companion animals can also draw unwanted wildlife such as coyotes, bobcats, cougars, or bears. For coyotes in particular, they are stimulated by and interested in free-roaming dogs, not necessarily as prey, but simply because they're similar enough to arouse the coyotes' curiosity. Small animals such as house cats or toy dogs are viewed as prey by coyotes or other predators, so it's safest for small companion animals to be kept indoors, or under direct supervision when they're outside.
A great resource is http://predatordefense.org.
There is also terrific information at http://hsus.org/wildlife.
Stopping sport or contest hunting on predators
Question from Kathy:
We have recently been subjected to "special hunting opportunities" in Vermont. The coyote is now charged with full responsibility for the decreasing numbers of the deer herd. One organizer of this "First Howling Tournament" states, "can't shoot deer; we can shoot coyotes! At least it's something to do."Any voice against this in the media is met with anger and accusations for attempting to destroy a Vermont tradition (killing anything one wants, anytime, anyway), and not being protective of pets and livestock. The first "tournament" was a physically sickening, emotionally draining display of random, almost obsessive torture and killing of coyotes, for "fun" and prizes. Regardless of what this could convey to kids and adults, our factual information is being ignored and discarded as "just another animal rights idiot, interfering in something they know nothing about."
We have recently formed a group to attempt, at the very least, to obtain an injunction of future "tournaments". We are in desperate need of factual information and advice from anyone who has fought similar battles. Any resources would be GREATLY appreciated.
Vermonters for Safe Hunting and Wildlife Diversity is to help communication among people trying to end irresponsible and unsafe coyote hunting in Vermont. We are coming together to oppose and eliminate coyote hunting "tournaments," to change coyote hunting laws, and or to limit coyote hunting. We oppose: nighttime hunting of coyotes; current no bag limits; the current 365/24/7 open season on coyote hunting. We hope to promote better understanding of coyote ecology, including the recognition that coyote hunting cannot possibly occur on a scale that will significantly affect overall deer population in the state. Therefore, attempts to validate coyote hunting as a means to increase deer herd size are unfounded. We respect wildlife diversity and promote respect of the coyote on the Vermont landscape, as well as safe hunting.
Response from Sally:
I applaud your efforts to prohibit contest predator hunts. I find this to be the most egregious form of hunting, even if one considers hunting to be a sport, which I do not. This is one Vermont tradition that needs to be phased out. Tradition is no justification for continuing an unethical and scientifically indefensible practice. Dragging women out of the cave by their hair used to be a fine tradition, as was slavery, etc.Science tells us that random killing of coyotes actually exacerbates human/coyote conflicts by causing the population to grow. Destruction of the complicated and highly evolved coyote social structure results in more breeding, larger litters, and more frequent litters. Ordinarily only selected dominant animals breed, the rest of the family cares for the offspring. When the dominant animals or pairs are killed, the structure is disrupted, other members breed, outside animals invade the territory and chaos ensues. This results in more breeding, more litters, more pups and added pressure to hunt and provide food for the litters.
The coyote is the most persecuted animal alive. Last year over 75,700 coyotes were killed by the US Dept. of Agriculture's Wildlife Services program alone, at public expense. They have been and are still being poisoned, hunted, burned out of their dens, aerial gunned. Despite all this they have not only survived, they have flourished and expanded their territory to include every state in the union. It is a kind of poetic justice and a final 'thumbing of the nose' that this species has outsmarted our own species and overcome every bit of ammo that 'we' throw at them.
I would suggest finding a sympathetic legislator and introducing a bill banning contest hunts. It will give you a platform to expose this revolting practice to the unknowing public and to educate them and the legislature. You will find that even among the hunting crowd, there are those who do not consider predator hunting to be fair or sporting. Your cause will be enhanced if you can find some good old boy Vermonter hunters who will join your cause and speak out against this most unsporting and cruelest of all forms of hunting.
For further information on coyote contest hunts, get a copy of the film "Killing Coyote" by Doug Hawes (http://www.highplainsfilms.org/fp_killcoyote_credits.html). This would be a good film to show at a public spot in conjunction with a legislative campaign to ban contest hunts.
Comment from Carrie:
The Animal Protection Institute (www.api4animals.org) is very helpful and has detailed guidelines for embarking on successful legislative and educational campaigns.Comment from Elliemay:
May I also suggest that they contact the Humane Society of the United States for guidance and help. You can go to http://www.hsus.org/about_us/regional_offices/ to find your local representative.The inside scoop on safe and responsible cat litters
Question from Jeff:
Okay, you've piqued my curiosity! What is the most environmentally friendly cat litter? Can it ever be composted? And are some cat litter 'harvesting' methods more environmentally friendly than others?Response from Sally:
If you're looking for the 'Inside Scoop' on a litter that works well, is safe for your kitty, and non-toxic to the environment, then I recommend Swheat Scoop. Swheat Scoop is scoopable, flushable, and is a natural by-product of the wheat industry. The natural enzymes in the wheat are powerful odor neutralizers, and cats and kittens love it! It does track some, but the convenience is well worth it!Alfalfa pellets are similarly environmentally friendly and effective, but some cats object to the texture. This can lead to litter box avoidance, the most common behavioral problem that lands cats in shelters. 'Crystal' litters are objectionable for the same reason, not to mention their production is probably not that environmentally friendly.
Corn-based litter is great... except cats love to eat corn so much that they have been known to ingest it. This can cause intestinal impaction and require risky emergency abdominal surgery.
Clay litter is strip mined, at a huge toll to the environment. Silica dust, found in clay litter in large quantities, is what gives miners lung cancer after just a couple of years on the job! Just think of the havoc it can wreak on a feline's delicate system. In general, perfumed and dyed litters have a greater toxic load than dye free, fragrance free varieties.
To help your cat with the transition, make sure to gradually mix in increasing amounts of the new litter until the pan eventually (over the course of 2 weeks) contains just the new product.
Comment from Ruthann:
I would like to recommend PaPurr. It is more expensive, and I do not care for the scooping version, but we would love to be able to afford having the non-scooping delivered to our cattery. It is made from the by-product of papermaking, is dust free, and lightweight compared to clay litter. It does have a dye and I cannot comment on how that impacts the environment during manufacture or disposal.As far as composting, you can compost litter, but the compost could not be used in a food garden situation. However, if the amount is large enough the compost could be used to grow crops not intended for consumption, such as hay or simply on a lawn. Even scoopable cat litters will eventually break down, but the same concerns for how it is used are more important than ever.
Comment from Jeanne:
Another litter that is environmentally friendly is 'Cedarific'. It is made of cedar shavings, a by-product of the wood crafting industry. It smells wonderful and my cats love it. An added sidebenefit is that insects do not like it.
Comment from Kathy:
I think Feline Pine is the best!Comment from Sabine:
What about pellets made out of saw dust? We have used that, with great success, in our multi-cat household for years. No smells! But, I have had one "rabbit person" tell me that those pellets (if they contain pine) are toxic for rabbits.Comment from Jeannette:
I rescue miniature pigs and have 9 in a relatively small residential backyard. As you can imagine, odor control is one of my top priorities as well as maintaining a clean, ammonia free environment for my residents.Baking soda is absolutely wonderful for odor control both inside and out. It does, however prevent grass from growing due to the sodium content. It's completely odorless, works for up to 4 months, and of course, is all natural.
I recently found another great product called "Stable Fresh." It is "environmentally correct, all natural, and contains a blend of bacteria designed to speed the biodegrading process while eliminating odor, and assists in fly control." The product recommendations call for you to use it daily for a week, then once a week thereafter. So far, this has proven to be overkill as I have used it on average of once a week and it works almost instantly. There is a mild medicinal smell, but this dissipates quickly. It's still better than smelling strong ammonia. The product is recommended for indoor use, but I'm using it both indoor and out and it works equally as well for both even after a hard rain. I'm hoping the Stable Fresh works out best so it will allow me to grow grass again for my grazing and rooting friends.
I haven't determined which is more cost effective as yet as I've only used the Stable Fresh for a little over a month. I buy the 12 pound bags of baking soda for $4.88 a bag plus tax, and 4 bags cover my 70' X 35 to 40' yard easily. Depending on the amount of rain we get, I may not have to use the baking soda but once every couple of months. (Pigs' urine output can be compared to a large animal such as a horse. They can pee a river!) In cooler months when the soil doesn't dry well, I have to use more, much less in the hot summer months. I have been able to go 3 to 4 months without reapplying baking soda in the summer. The Stable Fresh costs $15.95 for 64 ounces and using a quart spray bottle (1000 ML), you can get 7 applications from one bottle of Stable Fresh.
What about caring for feral cats when it affects wildlife?
Question from Laura:
Trap-Neuter-Return (TNR) seems like the best answer to solving the problem of feral cat overpopulation; it is a way of humanely dealing with the feral crisis and it works where traditional methods fail. However, there are serious problems with the way caring for ferals affects indigenous wildlife. The feeding stations attract raccoons, squirrels and other animals, creating dependence on humans in these animals; in some places the colony population goes up instead of down because people dump cats where they see them being cared for, and the cats hunt already threatened birds and other native wildlife. I am a strong and active proponent of TNR, but I am troubled by these problems. What is the right thing to do?Response from Sally:
Thanks for your question. These are issues I have gone over with myself quite a bit and are not easy to resolve. I agree and believe that TNR is the best long term and most humane way of solving the feral cat overpopulation problem.The attraction of wildlife to cat feeders is difficult problem. It is hard to exclude very many critters by limiting the size of the feeder's opening, as anything smaller than a cat can get through.
One way I have found to exclude undesired diners is by trying to temporarily manipulate the food presence. In other words, if nocturnal critters are the unwanted diners, then try to avoid having any food present after twilight. The cats will learn to eat during the day, especially if you begin the regime with something very sexy to them, like canned food or tuna/canned meat.
If you have diurnal and nocturnal wildlife arriving at your feeders, you have more complicated problem, depending on the species involved. I have situations where starlings are eating me out of house and home during the day. I found I could create a barrier that they were afraid to breach, like light cardboard strips hanging over the feeder opening. This would probably not work for mammals like squirrels though.
A raised platform on 4 legs, one at each outside corner of the platform, will keep out dogs, but still allow raccoons, possums, mice and rats to climb up one of the posts and access the food/water. To prevent this, design a raised platform on just one, stable, central post. There will be a considerable overhang lip of platform on all sides, making it impossible for non-jumping climbers, such as the above-mentioned animals, to access. Cats are wonderful jumpers and will have no problem leaping onto the platform to feed. Of course, the central post will need to be imbedded in dirt or concrete so it won't wobble!
Each situation requires a different selective barrier of one sort or another. Sometimes you can only exclude the largest problem with your solutions, and just accept that others will be freeloading.
In all instances, I recommend being extremely discreet about feeding. That means keeping feeding paraphernalia hidden and out of view of the public. I would reload my feeders at a time when folks are not around. If the cats are truly feral, they will stay out of sight for the most part, especially during the day when people are about. If your feeding operation is visible, it will attract feline haters who will cause problems and also encourage people to dump cats.
Although you hear a lot and very loud concerns about cats eating birds, in fact, cats rarely are successful bird hunters. They are much better rodent hunters. Most birds can avoid cats and those that don't are usually fledglings or old/compromised birds. In the big picture, it is loss of habitat that is the significant cause in bird population decline. Cats probably don't even register on the radar screen as a significant cause of bird mortality. Documentation for this is
available through Alley Cat Allies (www.alleycat.org), along with more information about all aspects of your question.
Laura, you are doing the right thing! It is impossible to please everyone and meet all needs. If only we lived in a perfect world... but then we would not have feral cats at all! We can only dream of that day and do the best we can to minimize suffering to domestic and wild animals.
Open fire on feral cats?
Question from Paul:
There is a proposal before the Wisconsin Conservation Congress (a citizens' forum on environment issues – traditionally overtaken by hunters) that would advise the Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources to declare free-roaming cats an unprotected species. This would mean an open hunting season on them, for ANYONE (even minors!) with a small game hunting license.The rationale is to control predation of birds by these cats. But the significance of this "problem" is questionable. Also questionable is any method of eradication for population control. This measure would take an already questionable method and apply an even blunter instrument to it. The debate on the issue has reached a fever pitch here in Wisconsin, in just over a week.
What are your thoughts on this issue?
(More information: http://www.dontshootthecat.com, info@dontshootthecat.com)
(News article: http://www.madison.com/archives/read.php?ref=wsj:2005:03:06:407719)
Response from Sally:
I thought Wisconsin was a more civilized and humane state. Yikes! Thank you for mobilizing to protect the cats.It sounds like you are at the stage where the advisory committee is deciding if it should request that the Department of Natural Resources (DNR) classify feral cats as 'unprotected', thereby allowing any of them to be slaughtered by any means, by anyone, in any number. While the committee may be overrun with hunters, the public is not, and I think shedding light on what they are contemplating through media attention is one approach you want to take. It sounds as though this may already be happening.
First of all, there is a liability question here, in that a prized breed cat worth a lot of bucks (or anyone's owned cat) could be feeding among the ferals and get killed/wounded. The state might be liable for the financial worth of the cat and emotional damage to the owner. You should check this with an attorney, but liability issues scare government since they are the deep pocket vulnerable to law suits.
Secondly, there are a lot of cat lovers out there who will scream and hiss and claw at their state representatives to stop this nonsense. I would be getting them worked up and provide them with contact information to their state reps, the governor, and local newspapers letter to the editor columns. The DNR exists at the pleasure of the legislature and if legislators get enough heat, they will squelch this quickly.
Another point is that urban or suburban feral cat colonies are in populated areas where gun laws do not allow shooting, so how realistic is this as a means of 'control' in populated areas??
Lastly, and perhaps most importantly, is what science tells us about bird population decline. Habitat loss is by far the major culprit responsible for bird population declines. Cats are not even on the radar screen. Please check Alley Cat Allies website for documentation (read Feral Cats on the Firing Line at http://www.alleycat.org/pdf/firingline.pdf).
Good luck! I know you will be successful in squelching this absurd effort.
Note from Best Friends:
Because so many of you have asked, we wanted to let you know what is happening and what is being done to help protect Wisconsin cats:On Monday, April 11th at the Department of Natural Resources (DNR) Conservation Congress Question #62 will be up for vote. Question #62 would define feral cats as an unprotected species, as if that's not bad enough, a feral cat is considered any cat without a collar and not under the control of the "owner." This means that it will be legal to hunt cats with no season or bag limit. To see the entire question: http://www.dnr.state.wi.us/org/nrboard/congress/sh/cca/index.htm
There is a statewide campaign to defeat Question #62, led by a local coalition of animal groups and concerned individuals called Wisconsin Cat Action Team. They are organizing people to attend the hearings and voice their opinion.
What exactly can you do to help?
Right now the Cat Action Team feels that letters, emails, and phone calls from out of state will not help. If the vote passes, laws would have to be changed and the proposal would go before the legislature. At that time letters and petitions will be appropriate and we will keep you updated.
The key right now is getting the word out to Wisconsin residents to attend the hearings on April 11th and vote! If you have friends or family in Wisconsin, please urge them to attend the hearings and to spread the word to their friends. The more people we can let know, the better!
For locations in each county for the meeting on the 11th go to http://www.dnr.state.wi.us/org/nrboard/congress/sh/lo/index.htm.
The Cat Action Team is also looking for people to be County Coordinators in each county to help get the word out.
Thank you for being a part of the No More Homeless Pets Forum and for all that you do for our feathered and furry friends!
Green and clean
Question from Lindsay:
Thanks for bringing this topic to the forum! I volunteer in a spay/neuter clinic for feral cats where I (my clothing, etc.) come in contact with cats who are potentially infected with feline leukemia, FIV, FIP, etc. I also volunteer in a shelter where I am exposed to upper respiratory illnesses, parvo, etc. I am concerned about bringing these infections home to my cat and dog family.I take the precautions of bathing well after each clinic, before coming into contact with my family. I usually bleach my clothing and shoes, but it bothers me to use such caustic substances when ordinarily I use environmentally/animal friendly products. Can you suggest some cleaning/sanitizing products or practices that are environmentally friendly, use no animal ingredients, are not tested on animals, but safely and thoroughly clean/sanitize contaminated surfaces.
Also, I've heard that cleaners (detergents) and sanitizers mixed together cancel each other out, that a contaminated surface must first be cleaned, then sanitized - is this true? Can you also touch on green cleaning practices for large facilities? If a shelter or sanctuary were to adopt a more environmentally friendly cleaning procedure, what are the best products/procedures to use that would also be economically feasible on a large scale?
Response from Sally:
You bring up some very interesting and good issues. Thank you for your thoughtful question.You are doing all the right things to prevent bringing home unwanted diseases to your family. The shelters should be using sanitizing agents as well to prevent spread of disease within their own populations, like footbaths and hand sanitizer. I always strip off my clothing and shoes before entering the house and immediately shower and do a load of wash with bleach.
You can purchase cruelty free products for washing clothing and for the shower at most grocery stores, or at health food stores. Always check the labels of products at the store and look for the cruelty free icon or read carefully to be sure the products have no animal products in them and are not tested on animals. These days it is not hard to find such products.
I find that bleach is an inexpensive disinfectant that kills most bacteria. You can find animal friendly bleach. It can be greatly diluted; a tablespoon of bleach per quart is more than sufficient to spray traps, carriers, surfaces etc. Although bleach is a damaging agent to waste water systems, the amount is minimal. Besides commercial disinfectant preparations, I am unaware of any alternative that is better ecologically or chemically to do the job.
There are specific products that veterinary offices use to clean surfaces, but I am not sure about how animal-friendly these products are. However, a simple call to the manufacturer will get you the info you need. If you have trouble finding these products, I would contact PETA, Association of Veterinarians for Animal Rights (http://avar.org/) or another animal rights organization and ask for a list of cruelty free products, and indicate you are looking for disinfectants for your home or vet office. They should be able to find what you need.
As far as mixing products, do not mix ammonia with bleach, check your ingredients. This is a lethal combination that makes a very acidic gas that can damage your lungs. I would not recommend mixing them together for a single application. I would use detergents and sanitizers separately, with the disinfectant as the last application.
Thank you for your concern and interest and for the good volunteer work you do for the animals!
Uninvited rats deserve humane treatment, too!
Question from Alma:
We love all animals, and besides our totally indoor cats, we have birds, deer, raccoons, and an occasional skunk or possum in our yard, much to our delight. However, now rats have taken over burrows where the chipmunks used to live. They're brown & pink and kind of cute, but they've dug out holes big enough to break a leg in, and needless to say we're afraid of them multiplying exponentially. Is there any humane way to get them out of our yard?Response from Sally:
I can relate to your situation totally, as I face the same dilemma myself. I know this is not uncommon with folks who live in the country.One thing I want to alert you about immediately before I reply to the rest of the question, is to be sure your car is secure and do not leave any food in your vehicle ever, including bird seed or any other edible products. Three times wood rats got into my engine compartment and ate through wires going up inside the wheel well into the dashboard that connects my radio. To repair this is very spendy and I finally decided to give up and let them 'keep the radio'!
The first time it happened I had just bought a new van, and within a week, no radio. Furious, I returned it to the dealer. When I picked it up they informed me rats had set up shop on top of my engine and they had taken a Polaroid showing a huge nest made of insulation with a spiraling hole that disappeared into my engine block!!! and of course the warranty did not cover rodent infestation... The good news is I learned how to prevent this 'engine takeover' by keeping an anti-rodent 'beeper' under the hood of my car when parked in front of my place.
You can get these beepers at the hardware store or by catalog. You can set it at audible or inaudible levels and they beep at a frequency that annoys/repels the critters. This works well for me, but if I neglect to insert it, bingo, I see rat messages under my hood, like fecal calling cards or little gifts of pinecones, twigs etc. I have plugged one of these beepers into the crawl space beneath my house too.
As always, the key to coexisting with wildlife is to remove all food attractants. Even if you enjoy seeing all the critters, someone in your neighborhood will consider them 'pests' and call authorities to 'remove' them. There is a federal program supported with tax dollars called 'wildlife services' (a euphemism to be sure!) run by the USDA, which last year killed more than 1.6 million wild animals, plus non-target animals like dogs, cats and endangered species. The means they use for this are painful and cruel and dangerous and include traps, poisons etc. So, I suggest that you limit/stop feeding outdoor critters to keep from being taken over by rats. They are adorable but messy and not that compatibles of a neighbor and they breed like crazy. You definitely want to take precautions to limit their presence now before they multiply and overrun your place.
If you must feed birds or day light critters, be sure you remove all food at dusk, as rats are nocturnal. If your rat population is already soaring, you can buy live traps to relocate them. They look like miniature cat traps and can be procured at feed stores. I use apple, peanut butter, grapes, etc. as bait. I would check the trap frequently and then drive the critters away from human habitation. I recommend this as a very last resort as you can easily separate females from babies and break up family groups and there is no guarantee they will survive or prosper in their new setting. If they do survive and prosper, they may displace native flora and fauna, upsetting the balance of the ecosystem where they're thriving.
I hope this is not more information than you cared to receive! Good luck, Alma, and thank you for being so caring.
Comment from Claire:
I loved your response about the rats. I live way out in the country and am home at various times to lots of mice, pack rats and gophers.The pack rats can be discouraged by not leaving lots of places for them to hide outside around the house. They are very cute, but make an awful mess!
The mice: Folks might want to remember that spring is coming so you don't want to leave, in addition to food, anything in vehicles or around the place that mice can use for nesting materials. My comments come from long, bitter experience! They particularly like Kleenex. I've had my air conditioning fan expensively cleaned out so many times. They like the tissues and the shape of the fan for nests. I'm hoping that not leaving tissues in my truck this spring will discourage them. They are cute too – but very naughty.
Gophers: Well, I don't plant or water anything. Every plant on my property grows without help from me. So the gophers have the free run of my property. My little Mini (a Miniature Pinscher) chases them all the time with no success at all. I have photos of her little posterior disappearing down gopher holes to no avail. I'm sure they are cute too, but, you know, they move so fast that I've really not gotten a good look at one.
Of mice and men, plus 'enviros vs. animal people'
Question from Georgia:
I love this topic! I am an environmentalist, a vegetarian, and love all animals. I have worked at an environmental agency and I have worked at a shelter, and while the majority of people who care about animals usually make some attempt at caring for the environment, such as recycling, reusing, using washables rather than throwaways, etc., the people who work for the environment usually were not vegetarian nor did they necessarily care for animals. Anyway, here's the question, and I hope it's appropriate.Without hurting the mice, how do I discourage mice from coming in my house and chewing through things? I found in a drawer in my kitchen mouse droppings and a cloth bag filled with field corn used for a heating pad, chewed through. Also, in another drawer down, some tea bags had been chewed into.
Response from Sally:
So glad you are enthused about the topic! Me too. It is an interesting point you bring up about 'enviros' generally being unaware of and uninterested in animal exploitation and continuing to eat meat and support an industry that does more pollution to the planet than any other – as opposed to animal activists who have a generally better understanding and sympathy for environmental issues and whose lifestyles are geared to be environmentally friendly. I think one reason is it is easier to recycle and minimize use of wood products than it is to change your eating habits. People are very attached to their lifestyles and avoid invading their comfort zones.I was shocked to learn about this difference between being 'green' vs. 'cruelty free' in my early days of activism when attending an Earth First gathering about grazing. To our horror, not only did most of the green folks eat meat, but some of them actually arrived with McDonald's lunch bags. What kind of credibility do they have tabling against grazing practices when they are supporting that very industry with their money and stomachs? This was over 20 years ago and by now things have improved a bit, probably because the issue of factory farming and health related effects are becoming better known. However, it is a pity there is not better understanding and cooperation between our movements, together we could move mountains. In general, I find that the biggest roadblock to real social progress is we humans, our egos and attachment to habits.
Now onto the mice! The best offense is a good defense and that means removing the food source. That is what the mice are after in your kitchen. So, I would put anything even remotely edible or smelling edible (like soap, shampoo, toothpaste, candles etc.) into air tight containers thick enough that little sharp teeth and claws cannot penetrate. Glass jars or metal containers would be better than plastic.
Next, take your drawers out and empty your cupboards and look for entry holes. They can be tiny, as mice can squinch down to a remarkably small size. These you would want to fill with steel wool, which is available cheaply at hardware stores. To go a notch further, and eliminate the critters from under your home and walls, walk around the outside of your house and look for vents, air spaces, and any openings. These should be covered with metal screening. You can treat your attic from the inside, find the openings and screen them. Prior to this process, you will want to take precautions to exclude or repel the critters from under and in your home to avoid imprisoning them or separating babies from moms.
You can purchase anti rodent beepers as I mentioned earlier in the forum to exclude rats. I use these devices under my house and in the engine compartment of my van to keep wood rats away. You can also get livetraps for mice, they are small, plastic devices that are available from PETA and also at some feed stores, and they work. Just be sure to follow the directions and check the traps FREQUENTLY, or a little mouse could be in there, starving to death!
I hope this helps you and thank you for your questions and good work for the earth and its creatures.
Blocking mice without potentially deadly steel wool
Question from Linda:
About using steel wool to exclude mice... I used to think that this was suggested because mice couldn't penetrate through steel wool and so it was just a good mechanical blocker.Recently, a friend told me steel wool is recommended because when the mice try to chew through it, they ingest it, and it kills them by destroying their guts, not only fatal, but also slow, cruel death.
I don't know if this is true or not. If so, it's pretty horrifying, isn't it? Can you check this out and put the answer out there so we know the truth? I don't want mice eating my [vegetarian] groceries, and I will block them from entering my house, but I won't kill them or torture them to death.
Response from Sally:
You bring up an interesting and disturbing point. I have not heard of mice ingesting steel wool but anything is possible, especially since once they have had entry via a hole, they will persist to regain entry to that food source. As an alternative, I would suggest tacking wire up over the hole if you can, or compress fine mesh chicken wire into a ball to plug the hole. I agree with you, I would never go beyond excluding them from my home. Thank you for caring.The grass is always greener... but is it animal-friendly?
Question from Ruby:
So many aspects of commercial or mainstream gardening can be harmful for both companion animals and wildlife. For example, slug bait, even the 'safe for pets' kind, can and does poison dogs and cats. And fertilizers can burn animals' paws and cause severe toxic sensitivity reactions. What are some of the most important things we can forego 'doing to' our yards and the animals found there? What are viable replacements for the harmful practices that we'd be giving up?Response from Sally:
It's important to avoid putting anything harmful into the water system and soil. It's crucial to be mindful of what ends up in our drains and downspouts, because what goes into the local water can hurt aquatic and riparian animals, which already are hanging on by a tenuous balance. Even 'just fertilizer' can throw a micro system out of whack and on a neighborhood level considerably alter the species profile for the region. Those of you who are seasoned in years probably remember how many frogs used to sing at night, compared to the 'unearthly' (pun intended) quiet of our evenings these days. A lot of that is due to pesticides, herbicides and fertilizers helping to deplete the amphibian populations.I always very sparingly use organic fertilizer or very liberally apply homemade compost, and use cruelty-free methods of discouraging bugs and slugs. For example, I spray diluted soapy water to rid plants of aphids, and an added touch of Tabasco sauce to the mix discourages other critters from munching your veggies and flowers.
Perennials and trees, once established, require significantly less watering and 'tampering' than large expanses of green laws.
There is a lot of information on nontoxic gardening that uses only harmless and organic means of solving problems and feeding your flora, available at public libraries and online. Many communities even offer free organic gardening classes and workshops.
We can accomplish so much by soil aeration, natural mulching and the fostering of beneficial insect populations. An organic garden may take a few years of pampering to catch its own stride, but once it does, gardeners may wonder why they ever thought they needed that container of Roundup in the first place!
Note from Forum moderator:
Thank you to the many members who sent in questions for this week's No More Homeless Pets Forum! Transcripts from this and all other Forum weeks are archived for easy reference and are made available to all at http://www.bestfriends.com/nomorehomelesspets/weeklyforum/forumarchives.cfm.For more information and advice related to this past week's topic, please visit the No More Homeless Pets Forum Archives (see link above). The sections on Feral Cats and Legal Action may be of particular interest.
As always, thank you for being part of the forum, and for all you do for our animals friends!
